Fence Contractor in Eugene, Oregon

What Drives the Cost of a Fence?

Fencing is quoted by the linear foot, but the rate per foot moves a long way depending on six things: the style you pick, how tall it is, what the posts are, what the ground is like, how many gates you need, and whether an old fence has to come out first.

• Style and infill. The biggest single driver. Split rail uses the least material, cedar picket more, full cedar privacy more again, and decorative metal or hog panel sits at the top.
• Height. A 6-foot fence uses roughly half again as much material as a 4-foot one and needs deeper, heavier posts. In Eugene, a fence in a required front yard setback is capped at 42 inches, while interior side and rear setbacks allow up to 6 feet — so one property can need two different fences. Deer fencing in the R-1 zone can reach 8 feet under specific conditions.
• Posts and how they are set. Pressure-treated wood posts are the baseline. Galvanized steel posts cost more up front and are the main reason a fence still stands straight after a decade in wet Willamette Valley ground. Post depth and concrete volume both scale with height.
• Ground and grade. Sloped runs have to be stepped or racked, which adds cuts and labor. Rocky soil, tree roots and buried utilities slow the digging — this is the most common source of surprises on a fence job.
• Gates. Every gate costs several times what the same length of fence would. A walk gate is straightforward; a double drive gate needs heavier posts, diagonal bracing and stronger hardware.
• Tear-out and access. Removing and hauling away an old fence is real labor and disposal cost. Narrow side yards, no alley access and landscaping that has to be protected all add time.

Every price range we publish — fencing, decks and outdoor living — lives on one page, along with exactly what a fixed-price proposal includes.

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